If you want to get close to a fish with a brain like yours—large, highly sensory, highly social and highly curious—you must travel to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, board a 145-foot dive vessel and then travel out to sea for twenty-eight additional hours, the distance from Washington DC to New York (245 miles). After squeezing into a thick rubber wet suit, you’ll board an inflatable zodiac for another ride to any one of a number of dive sites. You’ll latch a twenty pound belt around your waist, and strap on your tanks, underwater light and camera, after which you’ll jump into the cold water, where every breath depends on a fine-tuned contraption of tanks, tubes and gauges. You’ll descend the anchor line slowly. Maximum depth could be 130 feet—the equivalent of descending thirteen stories. Then you wait...

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